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Greetings Internet Stranger! As I mentioned in my previous post about Paris, Gay Paree is my favorite foreign city in the very whole wide world. So what would I do if I had 24 hours in Paris? What are my absolute favorite places in my absolute favorite city? I am so glad you asked, Internet Stranger! Come with me for 24 hours in Paris and I will take you to my favorite museums, the most breathtaking churches, and the most fabulous temple of haute cuisine. Also there will be soup.

24 Hours in Paris

Where to Stay?

Paris, you may have heard, is a rather popular city for tourists. That means you’ll never be starved for choices. The important thing for your 24 hours in Paris is to pick the right neighborhood. In Paris, they don’t really say neighborhood, they say arrondissement. And my favorite arrondissement to stay in is the 8th. It’s not the coolest, but it’s extremely convenient. Plus if you find a charming hotel like Lord Byron on a quiet street, it’s easy to feel like there are no tourists around. 

If you want a great deal on this hotel, click here. And if you want to explore over 7000 hotels in Paris, just click here.

24 Hours in Paris

What to Pack?

You’ll need comfy shoes for all the walking we’re going to do today. If it’s summertime, I love my special pink Birkenstocks. These aren’t your grandpappy’s Birkenstocks anymore. They come in every shade, and I always get compliments on my electric magenta shoes.

Paris is hot in the summer, so don’t forget the sunscreen. My favorite is the Neutrogena spray bottle because it’s so easy to apply. And as a solo traveler, I can actually use it myself on my own back. I just put it in my purse and re-apply throughout the day.

Finally, if you’re not from Europe, you need a universal adapter if you’re going to plug in electronics. European electrical outlets don’t work with American, UK, or Australian plugs. I suggest the NEWVANGA travel adapter. It’s usable with any electrical outlet in the world, so you won’t need to keep buying new adapters. I always carry two with me, just in case something happens to one.

Musee de Cluny

24 Hours in Paris

Morning: Musee de Cluny

As a museum junkie, I could list about five museums in Paris off the top of my head that I adore with all my heart. But my favorite museum in Paris isn’t the Louvre, the Musee d’Orsay, or the tubular Pompidou. No, the museum that has my heart for all time is The National Museum of the Middle Ages, which is known to its friends as the Musee de Cluny. This is where we begin our 24 hours in Paris.

The Musee de Cluny has a new wing and an old wing. Of course this being a European building, they have a different concept of what constitutes new and old than we Americans do. The “new” wing is the 14th century former home of the abbots of Cluny. The old wing used to be a Roman bathing house and dates from the 3rd century.

I love the whole museum because it’s easier for me to swan about and pretend to be Eleanor of Aquitaine convincingly there than in my apartment. However, I do have a few favorite fun facts, courtesy of the excellent audioguide that I would be privileged to share with you.

THREE FUN FACTS ABOUT THE MUSEE DE CLUNY

Musee de Cluny
1) who are these guys?

These poor men, who all appear to be great losers in a game of “Who’s Got Your Nose?”, are meant to be the heads of the kings of Judah. They used to be part of Notre Dame Cathedral. However, during the French Revolution the anti-monarchists mistook them for French kings and tore them off the building and then sold them. Revolutionaries are always overreacting like that. If they’re not arresting dissidents or threatening to blow up Gotham City, they’re falsely accusing statues of colluding with the aristocracy.

Musee de Cluny
2) and what’s up with this lady?

This is the most famous work in the museum and rightfully so. One reason is the artistry that went into creating the tapestries. The other is the history mystery around the tapestries’ meaning. Five of the tapestries depict a woman interacting with a unicorn, and each tapestry panel represents one of the five senses.

But the sixth shows the woman retreating back into a tent. This tent inexplicably has the words “My Only Desire” written over its door. What does this mean? What is the woman’s only desire? Is she renouncing physical pleasure in favor of spiritual bliss? Is it referring to the sixth sense, aka ESPN? The world may never know.

I personally think she has her only desire already, which is to OWN A FREAKING UNICORN because that’s the coolest pet ever.

Musee de Cluny
3) What’s this book about?

This is a page from an old combat manual designed to teach aspiring warriors how to fence. I don’t really understand how anyone could learn how to fight from a little book like this. It’s very difficult to fence and hold a book at the same time. I suppose your teacher could describe the book to you as you practice, but if you have a teacher, why do you need a book? Also I like that one of the fencers in the illustrations is wearing a lovely shade of pink. Pink was considered to be a masculine color during medieval times.

Musee de Cluny
24 hour treasure

This is a rose made of gold. It was used on the fourth Sunday of Lent as a special gift that the Pope would give to someone particularly faithful. Though many of them were made during the Middle Ages, this is one of only three that survives. If anyone was wondering what to get me for my next birthday, this would make a most welcome option. It’s more practical than a real rose because you don’t need to water it and it still lasts forever.

24 Hours in Paris

Afternoon: Explore Around the Latin Quarter

The neighborhoods around the Latin Quarter and the Musee de Cluny are some of the most touristic in Paris. But that just makes it all the more satisfying when you find the cool restaurants and attractions! Let’s get our 24 hours in Paris started with…

Approximately top 5: latin quarter edition

PS. I know that not all of these places are in The Latin Quarter. Some are just near The Latin Quarter. Go be pedantic somewhere else. This 24 hours in Paris is for kindhearted folks only.

The Latin Quarter 24 hours in Paris
1) Lunch at Bouillon Racine

Before we continue our 24 hours in Paris we need lunch. Bouillon Racine is an adorable restaurant dating from 1906 conveniently located near the Musee de Cluny. It is a worthy destination in and of itself because it is gorgeously decorated in an Art Nouveau style. The whole restaurant is exploding with green and glass and curving lines and chandeliers and whatnot. At this point, some of you may be thinking, “Gosh Stella Jane, you sure talk about Art Nouveau a lot. Why are you so into it?” I am glad you asked!

24 hour tale

My elementary school had an excellent book fair that I eagerly anticipated each spring. My favorite section was the dollar bargain bin. It featured an impressive assortment of obscure children’s paperbacks at rock bottom prices. It was like the Barney’s Warehouse Sale for juvenile geeks.

One year, I bought a book in a series called My Name is Paris. As you can tell from the title, this book was about a young woman named Paris who solved crimes in the city named Paris at the turn of the century. I remember nothing about the mystery but I will forever remember the cover, which was modeled after the Art Nouveau design of the Paris metro station. And thus a major crush on a brief period of European aesthetic history was born.

I would have been happy with Bouillon Racine if it contained nothing but this lovely Art Nouveau decor. But they were nice enough to feed me on top of allowing me to look at their fancy green mirrors.

Bouillon Racine

Bouillon Racine serves a three course prix fixe lunch which, like many prix fixe lunches in Paris, is a pretty sweet deal. Always start with the soup because that is a house specialty. This was a chilled cream of avocado soup that was extremely refreshing on a hot July apres-midi.

Bouillon Racine
24 hour treat: beef tartare

My main course was beef tartare, which is basically chopped raw meat. It is highly satisfying to a carnivore like myself. I come from a family of farmers on my mother’s side, so I’m not sentimental about meat. However, though beef tartare is a French classic, it is still raw meat, so never eat it at a place unless you’re sure they’re using high quality beef. Basically think of beef tartare as the sushi of meat. This preparation had a mustardy sauce that gave it a saucy and sassy kick.

Bouillon Racine

From one classic to another, I finished my meal with that old standby, creme brulee. I just love the physical sensation of eating this dessert. It’s so fun to tap, tap, tap on the crust and then dig into the custard underneath. I feel like a kid again every time.

The Latin Quarter
2) The Latin Quarter

Why is there a neighborhood in Paris called The Latin Quarter? Shouldn’t it be called the French Quarter instead, or something? I’m so glad you asked! It is called the Latin Quarter because it has historically been the academic center of Paris and naturally in the Middle Ages this meant that Latin was spoken here. The famous Sorbonne University is still located here.

The Latin Quarter became a center of learning because of a fascinating medieval scholar named Abelard. He tutored a young woman named Heloise, the niece of an important figure in the church, Canon Fulbart. Abelard and Heloise fell in love and Heloise became pregnant. Abelard and Heloise married but apparently this was not satisfactory to Canon Fulbard because he had Abelard castrated anyway. Those medieval scholars did not mess around.

Anyway Abelard sensibly decided to devote his life to his studies after this and he and his followers moved to the area that soon became known as the Latin Quarter. Nowadays everyone likes to come here to see the adorable winding streets, medieval churches, and official and mysterious plaques marking that something of historical significance happened here.

The Latin Quarter

There are parts of the Latin Quarter that are horrifyingly touristic, but if you get off the Rue de la Huchette and explore the side streets during your 24 hours in Paris, you’ll begin to understand why I find this neighborhood so enchanting.

The Latin Quarter
3) The churches of the Latin Quarter

You can’t spend 24 hours in Paris without hitting up some churches. The church above is one of several beautiful historic buildings in the area, the Eglise St. Severin. Like Notre Dame, it is in the Gothic style and has some sweet flying buttresses.

The Latin Quarter

It is also, as I discovered, a great place to sit when you want to rest your feet out of the sunshine. I’m going to sound a bit like a broken record on this subject, but Paris is such a big walking city that I became very invested in finding interesting places to sit in the shade. 

The Latin Quarter

This church is St. Julien le Pauvre, which was not open to the public, but which does feature an adorable little garden in the back. 

The Latin Quarter

Ugh, Paris. I could spend my entire 24 hours in Paris looking at this view.

24 HOUR TREASURE

If you’re into French philosophers, don’t miss the church of St. Etienne du Mont. Philosopher Blaise Pascal is buried in the church. You might be thinking that most French philosophers aren’t notably religious, but Pascal was an exception.

One idea he’s most famous for is Pascal’s Wager, which basically says it’s a better bet to believe in God than to not believe in God because if you believe in God and you’re wrong, you won’t lose anything. So it shouldn’t be surprising that he’s very prominently buried in a notable French church. 

St. Etienne du Mont

However, even if French philosophers don’t interest you, I’m sure that eye-popping double staircase will be worth a look or two during your 24 hours in Paris. I imagine this is what Led Zeppelin had in mind when they wrote about the stairway to heaven.

4) Shopping!

If you’re looking to do a little shopping during your 24 hours in Paris, try the adorable Pays de Poche at 73 Rue Galande. They have really cute jewelry and tchotchkes that you won’t find in any of the tourist traps. I got a pair of charmingly mismatched purple earrings here. Mismatched earrings are really on trend right now, and if you can’t get something trendy in Paris, where can you, I ask?

Paris street art
5) Street Art

I don’t think of street art as being particularly Parisian. However, one of the most famous street artists is a Frenchman known as Invader who is famous for putting up these little Space Invader characters. He started by only invading France, and now he has invaded the entire world with these cute lil fellas. So I was delighted to spot one of his pieces just wandering around the Rue des Anglais. That’s the kind of serendipitous adventure that occurs when you start exploring without a guidebook!

Le Pantheon
6) Le Pantheon

Le Pantheon used to be a church, but after the Revolution it was turned into a monument to Reason and Science. I had seen the exterior before but had never gone in to explore the building. I soon discovered that this was a mistake on my part because Le Pantheon has many delights for the modern tourist. My favorite feature was the woman who works behind the ticket counter and the benches. She asked me if I was under 25 and an EU resident. If you are both, you get a discount on most museums/historic sites in Paris. I am neither, but thanks muchly for the compliment, Madame!

Aside from this charming woman, I also liked the fact that the Pantheon has many comfy benches on the first floor, so you can do as much sitting as you like.

Some of you may be looking for information with more historical relevance. Happy to oblige!

THREE FUN FACTS ABOUT LE PANTHEON

Le Pantheon
A) who’s buried here?

Lots of great Frenchmen (and a few women) have been interred at the Pantheon. Its primary function, in fact, is to honor the best and brightest that la France has to offer by offering a suitably splendid home for their remains. Famous internees include Rousseau and Voltaire, who are honored with giant, imposing tombs in the basement.

The  amusing side effect of this goal is that once enough people decide that a person doesn’t deserve to be in the mausoleum anymore, they are summarily dismissed without even the benefit of a fair trial. This very punishment was inflicted on Marat, who was initially placed the Pantheon and then cruelly evicted later, one can only assume by someone twirling a mustache.

The  amusing side effect of this goal is that once enough people decide that a person doesn’t deserve to be in the mausoleum anymore, they are summarily dismissed without even the benefit of a fair trial. This very punishment was inflicted on Marat, who was initially placed the Pantheon and then cruelly evicted later, one can only assume by someone twirling a mustache.

I really hate to break it to the people in charge of this sort of thing, but I can’t imagine that it upsets people very much to be moved to a new location after they are already dead. Maybe it would have been better to think of a suitable punishment when they were still around to be aware that the punishment was taking place.

Le Pantheon
B) who’s not buried here?

Joan of Arc is my most favorite Frenchwoman because of her courage in battle and her pioneering efforts to popularize the chic bob hairstyle. I was surprised to find nothing about this blessed saint at the museum dedicated to the Middle Ages that I had visited earlier that day. Yet here I was at the greatest temple to French secularism in the world and lo and behold I find four panels illustrating her life.

But now that I think about it, it makes total sense that there would be a tribute to her in the Pantheon. Whatever your thoughts about Mlle. d’Arc’s religious experiences may be, it is undeniable that she walloped the English on the field of combat and that is something that all French people can celebrate to this day.

Le Pantheon
C) is that the golden snitch?

Sadly this little golden ball is neither sporting tiny wings, nor will catching it give you 150 points towards your Quidditch win. Instead, it serves as a serious commentary on the omnipresence of the contemporary police state and the inextricable ties between sexuality, government, and power in the modern world–

My bad again, though this is Foucault’s pendulum. It has nothing to do with Michel Foucault, well-known grad student fan-favorite and the author of Discipline and Punish. Rather, it is an experiment by an entirely different Foucault named Leon. He was a scientist determined to prove that the earth rotates instead of standing still. Apparently this little golden ball, which is attached to the roof of the Pantheon by an invisible string, proves that the earth rotates. I am not exactly sure how, but that’s why they don’t let me put things in the Pantheon.

What I do know is that watching the ball move back and forth across the floor is mesmerizing and soothing. When I write The Lazy Person’s Guide to Paris I am going to recommend sitting in the Pantheon and watching Foucault’s Pendulum move as a highlight.

jardin du luxembourg paris

24 Hours in Paris

Late Afternoon: Jardin du Luxembourg

If watching Foucault’s Pendulum is a highlight of The Lazy Person’s Guide to Paris, the Jardin du Luxembourg is the absolute number one attraction. If you like looking at pretty things and sitting, this park will give you everything you have ever asked for and more.

This park has everything: statues of fancy French ladies

jardin du luxembourg paris

glamorous houses

jardin du luxembourg paris

an abandoned unicorn who ran away from the Musee de Cluny

jardin du luxembourg paris

French poet Charles Baudelaire

jardin du luxembourg paris

and the Statue of Liberty!

jardin du luxembourg paris

So there’s really something for everyone!

jardin du luxembourg paris
24 hour treasure

There’s often a free performance going on in the Jardin du Luxembourg. I randomly came across a piano concert in the middle of the park. But my favorite show to watch is the old French guys playing petanque, which is kind of like a French version of bocce. Just don’t take their picture! I think that’s kind of rude unless you ask permission, and they probably won’t take kindly to their game being interrupted for a photo request.

24 hour tip

Maybe you haven’t found enough art during your stay in Paris? In that case, check out the free museum in the Jardin du Luxembourg called the Orangerie. When I was there, there was an exhibit of an artist named Alain Kramer who is a photographer with an unusual technique he refuses to explain. It’s hard for me to believe the above work is a photograph! Was it from a desert on the moon?

taillevent paris

24 Hours in Paris

Evening: Dinner at Taillevent

Taillevent is a two-Michelin-starred Parisian legend. I remember hearing about it for the first time when I was about eleven. One of my teachers told me that she and her husband went to this restaurant for their anniversary. She made it sound so glamorous that I dreamed of going there someday. Even though the restaurant is out of my normal price range, I always save up my shillings before I make a trip to Paris so that I can dine here.

I’m sure they can tell by my clothes and shoes that I’m not rolling in the green stuff. Nevertheless, they always treat me like a princess. The sommelier usually sends over a free glass of wine or a cognac. Every meal at Taillevent starts with their amazing gougeres, which are light as air cheese puffs. I always have to stop myself from filling up on them because they are so scrumptious. But I have a whole tasting menu ahead of me!

taillevent paris

I visited in the summertime, and so the amuse bouche was a perfectly seasonal gazpacho that tasted exactly like a tomato that was living its best life. My favorite thing about the food at Taillevent is that it is the epitome of the philosophy of classic French food: to choose the best ingredients and to prepare them simply so that the product can shine.

taillevent paris

24 hour treat: Remoulade de Tourteau a l’Aneth

The first course was the classic Remoulade de Tourteau a l’Aneth. It is a harmoniously geometric crab salad with dill and the perfect circle of radishes on top. I’m sure if Sebastian the crab knew he was going to be put into a dish like this, he wouldn’t have run away during “Les Poissons”.

taillevent paris

The second appetizer was another dish that is usually on the menu: the Epeautre du Pays de Sault en Risotto. It’s not really a risotto. They use this magical spelt from Provence and transform it into a risotto-like dish. The “risotto” is topped with those decadent morel mushrooms. As good as traditional risotto is, this is better because the Provencal spelt has so much more flavor than Arborio rice.

taillevent paris

The meat course was this stunning duck breast. When I was a little girl, I watched the movie Gigi and dreamed of growing up to be a glamorous lady in Paris. Eating this duck made me feel like all my dreams had come true. Well, except that I was being accompanied by my Kindle instead of Louis Jourdan. But let’s not ask for the moon. We have the stars.

taillevent paris

24 hour treat: the cheese cart

Taillevent has a cheese cart and a dedicated cheese waiter. This waiter is a certified Cheese Nerd, so I highly recommend just telling him what kind of cheese you like. He will be able to pick out the right ones for you. I told him I like them stinky, and so he gave me three powerful cheeses. (I used a much classier word than stinky because we were speaking French.) Even though each had a different age, texture, and flavor, so they ended up going together beautifully.

taillevent paris

24 hour treat: twin desserts of taillevent

My favorite tradition at Taillevent is that there are always two desserts on the tasting menu. The first one was a kind of deconstructed tiramisu. Usually I don’t like tiramisu because the ladyfingers get so soggy with the coffee liqueur. Separating the dish into its component parts of cream, cookies, and coffee made so much sense to me. Also it is undoubtedly the prettiest tiramisu I have ever seen in my life.

taillevent paris

This next dessert was just the pastry chef showing off. It was all kinds of different textures and tastes in one dish: cookies, meringue, bright green herb sorbet, vanilla ice cream. Basically every time you took a bite it was like a 4th of July fireworks display in your mouth. Or since I am in France, I guess I should say it was a 14th of July fireworks display in my mouth.

taillevent paris

Finally came the mignardises. My favorite thing about these was that there was one in any flavor someone could want in a dessert. They had fruit, chocolate, nut, and coconut. I’m sure no one could turn this plate away disappointed.

24 hour tip

Just let the sommelier pick the wines to go with each course. I think a half glass with each course is a good amount. There won’t be a separate glass with the amuse bouche and mignardises normally. They always choose wines that are not too expensive for me without my having to ask, which I really appreciate!

That’s 24 Hours in Paris!

What would you do with 24 hours in Paris? Are you ready to start booking your hotel in Paris right now? Do you think it makes sense to punish people who are already dead? And why is the Statue of Liberty in the Jardin du Luxembourg? Do the French want to take her back? Please leave your thoughts below!

Note: If you want to know how I put my travel itineraries together, just click here. Keep in mind that while each article is about how to spend 24 hours in a place, that doesn’t mean you should ONLY spend 24 hours in Paris. If you have another 24 hours in Paris, add this itinerary too!

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